Cookery Maven Blog

20 Years On

Sonnet 116 William Shakespeare

Let me not to the marriage of true minds Admit impediments, love is not love Which alters when it alteration finds, Or bends with the remover to remove. O No! it is an ever-fixed mark That looks on tempests and is never shaken; It is the star to every wand'ring bark, Whose worth's unknown, although his height be taken. Love's not Time's fool, though rosy lips and cheeks Within his bending sickle's compass come; Love alters not with his brief hours and weeks, But bears it out even to the edge of doom: If this be error and upon me proved, I never writ, nor no man ever loved.

I've always joked that I'd like to write the 'real' wedding vows, the ones you figure out along the way. The ones about who picks out the next dog, who replaces the toilet paper, who decides where the vegetable garden is planted— you know, the nitty-gritty of daily life. We exchanged the traditional ones 20 years ago (we skipped the obey part since I'm a bit of an anarchist at heart) and as I thought about what I'd vow to Ted after many years together, there weren't as many revisions as I initially thought. The essence of the vows would remain the same— love, comfort and honor through all the sticky, messy, joyous and beautiful times we've walked through together and towards all that is waiting in the wings. The dog picking, garden planting and toilet paper placement will work themselves out.

One of my favorite women in the world gave us a card on our wedding day with Shakespeare's 116th sonnet, written in her hand, on the front cover. I remember reading it as a 23-year-old woman and thinking, 'well, that's nice' but didn't quite catch Ann's or Shakespeare's drift. I just ran across her card in one of my cookbooks a few weeks ago (that's where I put all the good stuff— cards, feathers, kid's artwork) and re-read those wise words as a 43-year-old woman. Not only did I catch Shakespeare's drift, I realized how prophetic that sonnet was when Ann gave it us all those years ago—  Ted has been my 'ever-fixed mark that looks on tempests and is never shaken' for over twenty years and trust me, that's no small feat.

We met on a bus going to the University of Minnesota when I was a freshman. He tried to catch my eye but I was very invested in being a 'college student' and was listening to my Walkman (remember those?), reading a book (something collegiate, I'm sure) and pointedly ignored him. He approached my table in Coffman Union, asked if he could join me and the rest, as they say, is history.

We dated for about 4 years and just when I was wondering where this train was headed, we went to lunch at the Choo-Choo Bar in Superior and for a walk on Moccasin Mike Beach on Valentine's Day 1993 and he asked 'the' question. Except his question was 'where do you see yourself in 20 years? 'and I answered,  'in an old farmhouse with a Newfoundland.' Not quite the answer he was expecting so he re-phrased it to something like— what if we got married? I asked him if he was serious and then said, absolutely, let's do it....the dog and farmhouse can wait.

Our life have been full since our wedding day in 1993— Jack was born eleven days before our first anniversary, we've moved seven times, had more jobs than I can count, hosted more parties than I want to count, bought our sailboat before we owned a house, traveled thousands of miles back and forth to Lake Superior, drove through a blizzard to pick up our Newfoundland Guinness, watched our family grow with the addition of Will, Sadie, Charlie and Meghan, took Talikser all over western Lake Superior, tried to be a two Newfie family but decided against it, spent many nights with a baby sleeping between us, acquired a MG Midget with a sordid past, drove more country roads near Cumberland than I can remember, decided to be a 4 dog family and finally bought our home in Bayfield. We've lived, loved, fought, stumbled, cried and laughed our way through the past 20 years together and I wouldn't have done it any differently (except maybe tried harder at the two Newfie family bit).

A new marriage is like a sapling, not much in the way of roots or canopy, but as the marriage grows and takes on the patina that only messy, loving and complicated living can provide— the roots grow deeper, the canopy expands and the gnarled trunk develops into the core that holds the two together. It's been a ride to remember and there is only one man I wanted at my side and thank God, 20 years later, he still is.

Ted's dad, Frank, gave me the book A Gift From The Sea by Anne Morrow Lindbergh in 1990 and it was another, 'well, that's nice' experience but Lindbergh's wise words didn't fully resonant with me until I had five kids, a marriage and the blessed respite of the beaches of Lake Superior. She likens the middle years of a marriage, when it's all about the untidy and sprawling business of building a family, to an oyster shell. She says, 'It suggests the struggle of life itself. The oyster has fought to have a place on the rock to which it clings tenaciously'. Oysters don't have the prettiest shells but they form a formidable home around a tender, living being— similar to the marriage that grows around the initial bright light of new love.

She described our marriage, 20 year on,  perfectly, 'The web is fashioned of love. Yes, but many kinds of love: romantic love at first, then a slow-growing devotion and, playing through these, a constantly rippling companionship. It is made of loyalties, and interdependencies, and shared experiences. It is woven of memories of meetings and conflicts; of triumphs and disappointments.' I know we'll move beyond our oyster shell towards quieter times but, right here right now, we are exactly where we should be— encased in the shell of the life we are creating.

Every love story worth telling needs a soundtrack and since I'm a big believer in theme songs for all of our milestones, it was up to me to set our marriage to music.  A marriage theme song is a big deal and required some serious thought on my part (Ted wasn't as into personal theme songs so there was the added pressure of the surprise element). I settled on These Are Days by 10,000 Maniacs and, like Sonnet 116, that song has proved to be incredibly prophetic. There is a line in the song that says, 'you are blessed and lucky. It’s true that you are touched by something that will grow and bloom in you' and it couldn't be more right on as I look back on the past 20 years. We've been blessed with a life full of realized dreams bigger and better than the ones we had dreamt for ourselves. It's complicated, the business of marriage, but as Saint-Exupery said, 'love does not consist in gazing at each other but in looking outward in the same direction.' During our best and worst times, Ted and I have always gazed in the same direction— towards our children, the Lake and each other. We have indeed been blessed.

These Are Days10,000 Maniacs

These are the days These are days you’ll remember Never before and never since, I promise Will the whole world be warm as this And as you feel it, You’ll know it’s true That you are blessed and lucky It’s true that you Are touched by something That will grow and bloom in you

These are days that you’ll remember When May is rushing over you With desire to be part of the miracles You see in every hour You’ll know it’s true That you are blessed and lucky It’s true that you are touched By something that will grow and bloom in you

These are days These are the days you might fill With laughter until you break These days you might feel A shaft of light Make its way across your face And when you do Then you’ll know how it was meant to be See the signs and know their meaning It’s true Then you’ll know how it was meant to be Hear the signs and know they’re speaking To you, to you

Homemade Pretzels & Beer Cheese

Have you ever wondered what quark is? Has it kept you up at night, tossing and turning with its Star Trek sounding name? Well, it's been a burning question in my mind for a while now and I decided to scratch that itch when I was at Mount Royal grocery store last week. I knew that quark was cheese and I knew I needed some for a beer cheese recipe from my new favorite cookbook, The Art of Living According to Joe Beef, so I put in the cart— right next to the Taleggio, Fromager d'Affinois and English cheddar. Joe Beef is a restaurant in Montreal that I really, really want to visit someday and when Anthony Bourdain interviewed the two men behind Joe Beef, Frederic Morin and David McMillan, on his show featuring Montreal— the deal was sealed, they are my kind of people. I was hooked from the minute they seared a lobe of foie gras on the wood stove in their ice fishing shack— I have a thing for hedonists, what can I say?

Back to the quark. According to the LA Times, 'quark is just the German word for "curds." A creamy, fresh cheese, quark's curds come together to form something magical — rich with a gentle tang, it's spreadable, kind of a cross between sour cream and soft ricotta cheese. Variations of the cheese can be found throughout Scandinavia and Eastern Europe.' It's also easy to make and it's on my list of things to try when it's not 80 degrees and unbelievably humid (recipe here).

The Joe Beef beer cheese was a snap to put together and tasted fresh and a little garlicky with just a hint of beer. I didn't have any Styrofoam cups or cheese molds and substituted a large-ish fine mesh strainer lined with coffee filters. It worked out okay but since the interior of the cheese is kind of runny, the presentation would be much prettier in a smaller container. I'm definitely putting this cheese in the appetizer rotation in my kitchen— it's perfect with pretzels, Ritz crackers or celery sticks (if you are trying to tone down your inner Hedonist).

Beer Cheese(from The Art of Living According to Joe Beef)

4.5 ounces quark cheese
4.5 ounces cream cheese
3.5 ounces blue cheese
1/2 cup pilsner beer
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 clove garlic, finely minced (don't be tempted to add more than a half of a clove, you don't want the garlic to overwhelm the beer notes)
Hefty pinch of paprika
4 (4 ounce) cheese molds with holes or four Styrofoam cups with holes poked in the sides and bottom
4 paper coffee filters to make the cheese

Preparation
Leave the cheeses at room temperature for about one hour. In a small pot, warm the beer over medium heat and then remove from the heat.

In a food processor, combine the cheeses, beer, garlic, salt, pepper and paprika and process until smooth.

If you are using Styrofoam cups, use a hot nail or a small pointed knife to poke holes in each cup, spacing them every square inch. You should have about 30 holes per cup. Dampen the coffee filters and line each perforated cup or cheese mold with a filter.

Divide the cheese mixture into 4 equal portions and put a portion in each lined cup. Put the cups on a rimmed plate, cover and refrigerate overnight. When you are ready to serve them, unmold each cheese and place on a plate. You can keep the cheese, covered, in the refrigerator for about one week.

Now that I had the beer cheese/quark question answered, it was on to the next burning question— how do you make soft pretzels? The kids love pretzels but I had heard tales of boiling the uncooked, twisted pieces of dough prior to baking and decided that was definitely not for me— until Sadie asked if we could try to make some on Sunday. Since I needed a beer cheese delivery vehicle, we decided to try out our pretzel making skills. As it turns out, Sadie is way better at knotting the pretzel dough into the perfect shape than I am—my pretzels looked a little chubby and squat next to her lithe and graceful masterpieces. Regardless, they tasted great and were the perfect accompaniment to the beer cheese. Pretzels and beer cheese— a match made in beer garden heaven.

Homemade Pretzels (from cdkitchen.com and Auntie Anne's)

1 1/2 cup warm water
1 1/8 teaspoon active dry yeast
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 1/8 teaspoon salt
1 cup bread flour
3 cups regular flour
2 cups warm water
2 tablespoons baking soda
Coarse salt, to taste
4 tablespoons butter (melted)

Preparation
Sprinkle yeast on lukewarm water in mixing bowl; stir to dissolve. Add sugar, salt and stir to dissolve; add flour and knead dough until smooth and elastic. Let rise at least 1/2 hour.

While dough is rising, prepare a baking soda water bath with 2 cups warm water and 2 Tbsp baking soda. Be certain to stir often. After dough has risen, pinch off bits of dough and roll into a long rope* (about 1/2 inch or less thick) and shape. Dip pretzel in soda solution and place on greased baking sheet. Allow pretzels to rise again. Bake in 450 degrees F oven for about 10 minutes or until golden. Brush with melted butter, sprinkle with salt and enjoy.

The Wisdom Of Wild Places

The kids and I went to a good, old-fashioned Sunday morning worship service today— complete with singing, the 23rd Psalm, poetry and a piece by Garrison Keillor about some serious retribution for a wayward organist. It was a celebration of over 70 years of worship on Sand Island and as the group sang their way through The Battle Hymn of the Republic, Morning has Broken and Throw Out the Lifeline, I (being the tone-deaf non-singer that I am) found a Prayer for a Camper, taped to the inside cover of the hymnal. It's a beautiful testament to the importance of carrying the wisdom, strength, quiet and humility of the wilderness into our daily lives.  A fitting testament to the generations of people who called Sand Island home (at least for the summer) and everyone else who finds the Divine in birdsong, a field of flowers, a night sky riddled with starlight or a stand of cedars.

Prayer of a Camper
Irene Mott

God of the hills, grant me strength to go back to the cities without faltering: Strength to do my daily tasks without tiring, and with enthusiasm; Strength to help my neighbor who has no hills to remember.

God of the lake, grant me thy peace and thy restfulness: Peace, to bring into a world of hurry and confusion; Restfulness, to carry to the tired ones that I shall meet every day; Contentment, to do small things, with a freedom from littleness; Self-control, for the unexpected emergency; Patience, for the wearisome task.

God of the Desert Canyons, warm my heart; Bake courage into my bones: Carve deep clefts within my soul; To hear through crowded places, the hush of the nighttime; To let in shafts of sunlight to brighten the cheerless corners of a long winter.

God of the Stars and Moon, may I take back the gift of friendship, of life for all: Fill me with awe and compassion; Fill me with a great tenderness for the needy person, at every turn. Grant that in all my perplexities and everyday decisions, I may keep an open mind, like the spacious night sky.

God of the Wilderness, with thy pure wind from the northland, drive away my pettiness; With harsh winds of the winter, drive away selfishness and hypocrisy; Fill me with the breadth and depths and heights of the wilds, When pine trees are dark against the skyline; Help me recall the humbleness of the hills, who in their mightiness know it not.

May I live the truth thou hast taught me, in every thought, and word, and deed.

Quick & Dirty Key Lime Pie

Everyone needs an easy pie in their repertoire and key lime pie is my summer version of a little black dress. I know that fresh key lime juice would be lovely but if you've ever tried to juice the barely-larger-than-a-walnut key limes, you'll understand why I use Nellie and Joe's key lime juice. You can substitute regular, Persian limes (or key limes) if you prefer to squeeze your own but since I'm going for quick and dirty— it's bottled juice all the way for this girl. Throw in a pre-made graham cracker crust pie shell and you can go from sad and pie-less to happy and pie-full in about 30 minutes.

Quick & Dirty Key Lime Pie(Adapted from Emeril Lagasse)

1 pre-made graham cracker pie crusts ( I used Keebler)
2 (14-ounce) cans sweetened condensed milk
1 cup key lime or regular lime juice
2 whole large eggs
1 cup sour cream
3 tablespoons powdered sugar, plus extra for dusting
1 tablespoon lime zest

Preparation
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In a mixing bowl, combine the condensed milk, lime juice, and eggs. Whisk until well blended and place the filling in the pie shells. Bake in the oven for 15 minutes and allow to chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.

Once chilled, combine the sour cream, lime zest and powdered sugar and spread over the top of the pie using a spatula. Sprinkle the powdered sugar as a garnish on top of the sour cream and serve chilled.

Great Big Sea Under A Great Big Top 2013

Great Big Sea has provided the soundtrack to our family story for years and as I waited for them to take the stage at Big Top on Saturday, some of those memories came flooding back. Dancing in our living room to Donkey Riding when Jack was 6 or 7, listening to Charlie belt out, 'oh me, oh my, I heard me old wife cry, oh me, oh my, I think I'm going to die' at Target when he was 3 years old, sitting in the cockpit of Isle of Skye listening to Road Rage on countless afternoons among the Apostle Islands, listening to Consequence Free on the dock in Presque Isle with Guinness at my side and Meg in my lap and seeing them for the first time at First Avenue in 2004 with Katie and Ted. Their music has been woven into the tapestry we've created as a family and Saturday night was perfect, every single minute of it.

From the very first song, I knew it was going to be a night to remember. And it was— dancing and singing for two hours with the kids, Katie, Dan and Molly was unforgettable.

Watching Ted dance with the boys made my heart sing with pure joy.

After a little coaxing, Meg got up and joined in the fun.

Alan came to the end of the stage and showed the boys some love— they were thrilled.

Charlie had the time of his life— he was on his feet nearly the entire show.

My heart was bursting with love, pride and gratitude by the end of the concert. It's nearly impossible to put into words what it felt like to dance next to the babies I used to hold in my arms— they've grown into such extraordinary human beings. As our family continues to grow up and travel into uncharted territory, nights like last Saturday are my touchstones— beautiful memories made to the soundtrack of our family's story.

A Trio Of Islands- Oak, Devil's & Rocky

DSC_9500.jpg

Summer is here, finally. It's been sunny for four days in a row, we are gearing up for the Fourth of July parade on Madeline Island tomorrow and we spent an afternoon in the islands— I'm ridiculously happy.

A message told in rock and driftwood.

Another message— this time told with a feather and driftwood.

George, sitting at attention and wondering why he has to wait for a potato chip.

The old fish camp on Manitou Island.

Sea caves at Devil's Island— crafted by water and wind.

Rocks on Rocky Island.

A feather veneer on granite.

Perfect rock placement.

The cormorant congregation moved on when the eagle came to visit the island.

Beef Empanadas- A Beefy Meal In A Pastry Package

I've always had a thing for anything (sweet or savory) wrapped in a flaky dough. When my parents would go out for dinner when I was young, my sister, Bridget, and I would get to choose what we wanted to eat for dinner. My Mom always made dinner from scratch and anything from the frozen food aisle or in a box seemed exotic and was a treat when the babysitter arrived for the evening. It was always a battle between Swanson's chicken pot pie (me) and Kraft macaroni and cheese (Bridget)— nine times out of ten, chicken pot pies won (I'm the oldest and have always been a little overbearing in the food department). So, when Tom and Jen (my brother and sister-in-law) showed up in Bayfield with empanadas on the dinner docket, I was a happy camper.

I recently had my first pasty in Mineral Point a few months ago and I was excited to try the south of the border version of a self-contained, pastry wrapped meat pie. The combination of currants, hard-boiled egg, flaky pastry and warm South American spices were brilliant and exactly what I was hungry for. I followed the recipe down to the letter and while I'm not exactly sure what the vodka brought to the table in regards to the dough, I have to say the pastry was beautifully flaky. I think I should make these for Bridget when she comes home in July— she ate a lot of Swanson's when we were little and I really should make it up to her. Beef empanadas are a good place to start.

Beef Empanadas (Cooks Illustrated May 2010)

Filling
1 large slice hearty white sandwich bread, torn into quarters
½ cup plus 2 tbsp. chicken broth (preferably homemade or low sodium)
1 pound 85 % lean ground chuck
1 tbsp. olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped fine
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp. ground cumin
¼ tsp. cayenne
1/8 tsp. ground cloves
½ cup cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
2 hard-cooked eggs, coarsely chopped
1/3 cup raisins or currants, coarsely chopped
¼ cup pitted green olives, coarsely chopped
4 tsp. cider vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste

Dough 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for work surface 1 cup masa harina 1 tbsp. sugar 2 tsp. table salt 12 tbsp. (1 ½ sticks) unsalted butter, cut into ½ inch cubes and chilled ½ cup cold vodka or tequila ½ cup cold water 5 tablespoons olive oil

Filling Preparation Process bread and 2 tablespoons chicken broth in food processor until paste forms, about 5 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as necessary.  Add beef, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper and pulse until mixture is well combined, six to eight one-second pulses.

Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering.  Add onions and cook, stirring frequently, until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes.  Stir in garlic, cumin, cayenne, and cloves; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.  Add beef mixture and cook, breaking meat into 1-inch pieces with wooden spoon, until browned, about 7 minutes.  Add remaining ½ cup chicken broth and simmer until mixture is moist but not wet, 3 to 5 minutes.  Transfer mixture to bowl and cool 10 minutes. Stir in cilantro, eggs, raisins, olives, and vinegar.  Season with salt and pepper to taste and refrigerate until cool, about 1 hour.

Dough Preparation Process 1 cup flour, masa harina, sugar, and salt in food processor until combined, about two one-second pulses.  Add butter and process until homogeneous and dough resembles wet sand, about 10 seconds.  Add remaining 2 cups flour and pulse until mixture is evenly distributed around bowl, 4 to 6 quick pulses.  Empty mixture into large bowl.

Sprinkle vodka or tequila and water over mixture.  Using hands, mix dough until it forms tacky mass that sticks together.  Divide dough in half, then divide each half into 6 equal pieces.  Transfer dough pieces to plate, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until firm, about 45 minutes.

Empanadas Assembly Adjust over racks to upper and lower-middle positions, place 1 baking sheet on each rack, and heat oven to 425 degrees.  While baking sheets are preheating, remove dough from refrigerator.  Roll each dough piece out on lightly floured work surface into 6-inch circle about 1/8 inch thick, covering each dough round with plastic wrap while rolling remaining dough.  Place about 1/3 cup filling in center of each dough round.  Brush edges of dough with water and fold dough over filling.  Trim any ragged edges.  Press edges to seal.  Crimp edges of empanadas using fork.

Drizzle 2 tablespoons oil over surface of each hot baking sheet, then return to oven for 2 minutes.  Brush empanadas with remaining tablespoon oil.  Carefully place 6 empanadas on each baking sheet and cook until well browned and crisp, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating baking sheets front to back and top to bottom halfway through baking.  Cool empanadas on wire rack 10 minutes and serve.