Cookery Maven Blog

The Cavaliers Go To The Beach

George and I go to the beach a lot. Sometimes, we take the Cavaliers. They are not an obvious choice for a sand, water and focused ball retrieving adventure but they each find a little something to do.

Seamus looks for a feather and once he finds it, carries it in his mouth the entire walk. If he doesn't find a feather, he attempts to retrieve the ball with George. Talk about an uneven playing field, he doesn't have a chance. I find a stick for him, throw it about 5 feet from shore and he jumps in the water and fetches it (he never give it back, he is a Cavalier after all).

Gus looks for birds to chase. Another uneven playing field. He is a little portly and has very short legs but he gamely takes off at breakneck speed after every bird he sees. Occasionally he will end up in the water. Given his body type, I think he is pretty buoyant but he is definitely not a fan of water sports and leaves the lake right away.

Henry is the one dog who can leave the beach as clean and dry as when he arrived. He sticks by my side the entire walk. He wouldn't know what to do with a stick if his life depended on it. However, he does know what to do with a knife. I came into the kitchen yesterday and he was walking around with one of my knives in his mouth.  He was holding it by the handle. The knife was covered in frosting and I think he was planning an after school snack.

A Taste Of Summer

I am not the biggest fan of dessert, I would much rather have another glass of wine. However, my family loves ice cream with a passion similar to George's affection for his Chuck-it. I decided to make another run at Mother Of The Year and what better way than with frozen cream, eggs and chocolate? The leap into the land of homemade ice cream was surprisingly easy and there is no looking back, it is so good. Meghan loved it so much, she brought it to school for snack. Not that second and third graders are a tough audience (when it comes to ice cream) but I was secretly proud of my new-found frozen dessert prowess when Meg said her classmates loved it.

I tried two different paths to ice cream heaven: no cook chocolate and a cook and cool vanilla bean. Both were good but I preferred the vanilla bean, the creamy texture was transcendent. I have an ice cream bowl attachment for my Kitchen Aid mixer and it worked very well. However, it is very important to freeze it at least a day in advance. I got a bit impatient, the bowl was not completely frozen and one of my batches had a lot of ice crystals. It was still good but the point of homemade ice cream is the rich and creamy texture (in my opinion).

I am working my way into gelato land. Now that is a place where I might have to take up permanent residence.

No Cook Chocolate Ice Cream

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

1 (5-ounce) can evaporated milk

2 cups whole chocolate milk

2/3 cup chocolate syrup

Whisk all ingredients in a 2-quart pitcher or large bowl until blended. Cover and chill 30 minutes.

Pour milk mixture into freezer container of a 1-quart electric ice-cream maker, and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. (Instructions and times will vary.)

Remove container with ice cream from ice-cream maker, and place in freezer 15 minutes. Transfer to an airtight container; freeze until firm, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Vanilla Bean Ice Cream

3/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/8 teaspoon salt

2 cups milk

1 cup heavy whipping cream

1 egg yolk

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla bean paste

Whisk together first 3 ingredients in a large heavy saucepan. Gradually whisk in milk and cream. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, 10 to 12 minutes or until mixture thickens slightly. Remove from heat.

Whisk egg yolk until slightly thickened. Gradually whisk about 1 cup hot cream mixture into yolk. Add yolk mixture to remaining cream mixture, whisking constantly. Whisk in vanilla bean paste. Cool 1 hour, stirring occasionally.

Place plastic wrap directly on cream mixture, and chill 8 to 24 hours.

Pour milk mixture into freezer container of a 1-quart electric ice-cream maker, and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. (Instructions and times will vary.)

Remove container with ice cream from ice-cream maker, and place in freezer 15 minutes. Transfer to an airtight container; freeze until firm, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Both recipes are from Southern Living.

A Cake For Ted's Birthday

Happy Birthday to Teddy. I remember the first birthday I spent with him. We had an afternoon picnic at Fort Snelling along the Mississippi and ate chicken salad from the Byerly's deli. He was turning 21 and had big plans to celebrate his ability to legally imbibe. I was a fresh-faced 19 year old girl without a fake id, thus the birthday lunch. Lots of years, birthday cakes and celebrations later, I finally made Ted his all time favorite cake— Black Forest Torte.

I have been on this earth for 42 years and have yet to make a cake from scratch and I didn't think a birthday cake for a dinner in six hours was the time to start. I bought a Duncan Hines chocolate cake mix and started my baking project. If you remember, following directions is not my forte and as a result, my baking adventures can be fraught with disaster. However, I am a good bartender and I had a couple of secret weapons to mitigate my boxed cake mix: Luxardo Maraschino cherry liqueur and Luxardo Maraschino cherries. I am telling you, these cherries will change your life. They will make you realize the fire engine red 'maraschino' cherries in a Shirley Temple or on top of an ice cream sundae are an abomination. Okay, maybe not an abomination but certainly ordinary and sickly sweet.  I put 2 or 3 tablespoons of the liqueur on each cake round, frosted the cakes with whipped cream, layered the cherries between the layers and on top and shaved good dark chocolate all over (it seemed like a pastry chef thing to do).

It was a little lopsided, the unflavored gelatin I put in the whipped cream to stabilize it did not dissolve properly and I couldn't find birthday candles but it was perfect. Perfect because we were in the kitchen— eating and laughing at the table. A birthday cake ablaze (in Ted's case) with candles reminds me to recognize the beauty of getting older and celebrate how far we have come together.

Cinco de Mayo Tamales

Pat and Ann agreed to share their tamale knowledge with us a week ago. Perfect timing because it was almost Cinco de Mayo and that means tequila. Gail brought some hibiscus syrup from Mexico and made the best margarita I have had (except Kathy's jalapeño margarita with the best salt I have put in my mouth, Tajin ). Tamales are little package of meat or vegetables, masa and cheese and there are quite a few steps to make sure those precious packages taste good. I took one look at the recipe and knew two things— 1) Pat and Ann did a lot of work before they set foot in the kitchen that night and 2) good food takes time.

I had my first tamale at El Burrito Mercado in West St Paul. I was about 15 months pregnant with Jack, big as a house and a little testy. Ted and his dad, Frank, thought Mexican food might encourage Jack to relocate. It didn't work, Jack decided to hang out for another week but my mood improved with each bite of tamale. It was after another lunch a week later with Ted and Frank at Pasquals in Uptown, I ate a bunch of jalapeño poppers, that Jack decided to become the first-born Dougherty. Needless to say, I have a special spot in my heart for Mexican food.

My favorite part of the evening is when we sit down at the table— kids drifting in and out, dogs circling hopefully and laughter filling the room. I can't think of anywhere I would rather be than in the company of these amazing women.

Tamales with Pork and Chicken

6 - 8 pounds pork shoulder

Large fryer chicken (about 5 pounds)

Salt and pepper to taste

Corn husks

Soak corn husks in warm water for about two hours.

Cut pork roast into fist size chunks, place in a pan and cover with water. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer and cook for about 2 1/2 hours or until very tender. Remove the meat from broth to cool. Once the meat is cool, shred it with your fingers and set aside. Save the broth, you will need it for the masa.

Cover the chicken with water in a large pot, Bring to a boil and then simmer for 2 hours or until the chicken is tender. Remove the chicken from the broth to cool. Remove and discard the skin, take the meat off the bones and shred into small pieces. Save the broth, you will need it for the masa.

1/2 cup corn oil

6 tbsp chili powder

3 tbsp garlic powder

1 tbsp black pepper

2 tbsp salt

Combine the pork and chicken in a large pan. Mix the oil and seasonings listed above in a small sauce pan and gently warm on stove top. Pour over meat and chicken and mix until thoroughly combined. At this point, the meat and broth can be refrigerated until ready to use.

2 pounds masa flour

3 tbsp paprika

3 tbsp salt

1 tbsp cumin seeds

3 tbsp chili powder

3 tbsp garlic powder

2 cups corn oil

Warm broth on stove top. Combine the masa, paprika, salt, cumin seeds, chili powder and garlic powder and then add the corn oil. Slowly begin to add 2 quarts of warm broth, about a cup at a time. Work with hands to make a dough with the consistency of thick peanut butter, add more masa or broth to achieve this consistency.

After the husks are soft, shake off excess water and lay on countertop on a damp towel. Pick up a husk, lay it across the palm of your hand with the small end towards your fingers. Scoop up about a 1/2 cup of masa with spatula and smear on husk. Cover the bottom and left 2/3 of corn husk with masa (this will make the folding easier). Add about 1 - 2 tbsp of meat on top of the masa. Starting from the left, roll tamale all the way to the right edge and then fold down the top of the husk. Tie a thin piece of corn husk around the tamale.

Bring a large pot of water with an insert set above the water line to boil. Stack tamales tightly on end, envelope end down, open end up in the insert. Cover pot and reduce heat to medium low and cook for at least two hours. Check water level often to make sure the pot does not boil dry. Let tamales set for 5 minutes, unwrap and eat. The tamales can be frozen after they have cooled.

A Taste Of Thailand From A Crock Pot

I was in dire need of inspiration for dinner. There were two pieces of frozen pork on the counter and I was fresh out of ideas. My newest cookbook, Hot Sour Salty Sweet, caught my eye. I wasn't in the mood to make a huge effort for dinner, just something simple in the crock pot. I had a lot of gardening to do and knew if I didn't get dinner started early in the day, the combination of hungry kids and a dirty Mom was a recipe for disaster. What if I braised pork in Thai peanut sauce in the crock pot?? Sounded easy and it gave me an excuse to make a Thai cucumber salad, one of my favorites.

Thai Cucumber Salad

2 cucumbers, peeled and diced

1/4 cup mint, chopped

1/4 cup cilantro. chopped

4 green onions, white and light green parts chopped

2 tsp jalapeño, diced

Dressing

1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice

2 tbsp fish sauce, I prefer Squid brand

2 tbsp white sugar

Whisk lime juice, fish sauce and sugar together. Combine the cucumbers, onion, jalapeño, mint and cilantro in a bowl, add dressing and serve.

Thai Braised Pork

6 pounds of pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into 4 - 5 inch pieces

3 tbsp oil

2 yellow onions, rough chopped

2 red peppers, seeded and rough chopped

1 cup natural peanut butter

2/3 cup soy sauce

4 tbsp chile garlic sauce

3 tbsp ginger, minced

2 - 4 tbsp red curry paste (depending on how hot you want the sauce)

3 tbsp rice vinegar

5 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 cup brown sugar

3 tbsp fish sauce

3 tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice

2 tbsp toasted sesame oil

6 tbsp water

Season the pork with salt and pepper. Add oil to sauté pan and brown pork on all sides. Remove pork from sauté pan and add to crock pot, along with the onions and red peppers. Combine all other ingredients in a food processor and process until it is a thick paste (add more water if it is too thick). Pour over pork and vegetables in crock pot and cook on high for 6 hours or low for 8 hours. Serve over jasmine rice with minced cilantro and mint, chopped peanuts, lime and green onions.

Tuna Salad With A Twist

I prefer tuna in olive oil and my favorite is Cento tuna. They use good quality olive oil and it has a mild salty taste. I used a three ounce can of tuna (do not drain), a handful of capers, chopped olives, a couple squeezes of fresh lemon juice, pecorino cheese and the last of the ramps. Mix it all together, put it on a pile of greens lightly dressed with lemon juice and olive oil and voila— a lovely lunch.

We Went Hiking Up A Hill

We went for a hike up Pratt's Peak. I heard it is the highest point in Northern Bayfield County— elevation 1426 feet. We parked off Happy Hollow Road and headed up a snowmobile trail. The kids enjoyed the mud.

I enjoyed the glimpses of vibrant color against the monochrome landscape of early spring.

There is a fork in the road and we chose to go left. It turned out to be a good choice, the trail began to climb through a forest filled with dead, standing birch trees. A birch fell about 5 feet in front of us as we were remarking about all the birch logs on the ground. I asked Will if a tree falls in the forest and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound? We decided, yes it does.

We got to the top and looked around, where was the lake? A lot of trees but no glistening blue water. Will climbed a tree to get a better view and reported that maybe we were on the wrong side. My orienteering skills are paltry at best but I know we went hiking up a hill. I heard there is a lake up there, maybe we will take a right at the fork in the road next time.

Cookies From My Childhood

I used to spend a lot of time at my Grandma Duffy's and she loved meringue in all shapes and sizes— pies, cookies, individual pavlovas. These chocolate chip meringue cookies were my all time favorite, although the pavlovas with strawberries were a close second. We went to her house for nearly every Sunday dinner. There was always dessert and when I walked into her kitchen and saw the sheet tray with meringues on top of the dishwasher, I was one happy little girl. My parents and grandparents would have dessert in the dining room and my sister Bridget and I would go into the den, watch Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom and eat our dessert on TV trays.

My Mom gave this recipe to Charlie last week. Considering how much I love these cookies, it is strange I have never made them. Meringue has always seemed way out of my league (I am not a good baker, remember?). I had egg whites sitting in the refrigerator (left over from the hollandaise) and this was my chance to have a little piece of Grandma Duffy in my kitchen. I just finished a book called The Kitchen Daughter by Jael McHenry and the main character,Ginny, is able to conjure spirits when she cooks from a recipe written in their hand. While Grandma Duffy did not appear, as I pulled the cookies out of the oven I was transported back to the her kitchen.

Chocolate Chip Meringue Cookies

4 egg whites 1/8 tsp cream of tartar 3/4 cup of white sugar 2 cups of corn flakes 1 cup of chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Beat egg whites and cream of tartar until it forms soft peaks and gradually add sugar. Continue to beat until shiny and holds stiff peaks. Fold in corn flakes and chocolate chips. Put spoonfuls meringue on a parchment lined sheet tray and bake for 15 minutes. Let cool on sheet tray to set and then move to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container.

A Gift Of Ramps

I had the most pleasant surprise a few days ago. My friend, Kathy, gave me a beautiful bunch of ramps fresh from her secret spot. I wanted to make something fantastic with them and what is more fantastic than eggs benedict with hollandaise? I sautéed spinach, ramps and shallots in olive oil (to compensate for the hollandaise), attempted to poach 2 eggs (6 eggs later, I had something that approximated poached eggs), sautéed pancetta and made the hollandaise. A lovely way to start the day.

Julia Child's Blender Hollandaise

3 egg yolks

1/4 teaspoon salt

Dash of cayenne pepper

1 stick butter, melted butter, heated until bubbling but not brown

1 - 2 tablespoons lemon juice

Place egg yolks, salt and cayenne in blender, blend for a few seconds at  high-speed until you have a smooth frothy mixture. Still at high-speed, start adding hot butter in a thin, steady stream, not too slowly. As you add butter,  the sauce should thicken. When half the butter has been added, add lemon juice. Continue blending until all butter is used.

 

There Is Theater In These Woods

We were on our way to Stagenorth to see Oklahoma! when we saw this bear about 4 blocks from the theater. A black bear sighting on the way to the theater— only in Northern Wisconsin.

Meghan is in the chorus with her best friend, Emily. This is her second performance and she loves it.

As I sat in the theater, I recognized so many of the faces— my kid's music teacher, Bill the wine guy, friends of Will and Sadie. What a treasure to have Stagenorth in Washburn, it truly is a community theater.

The talent in this area is astounding. My good friend, Liz, is the director. She has directed many productions at Stagenorth and her expertise is evident— Oklahoma! is a polished musical full of beautiful costumes, voices and characters.

Porchetta For A Pagan Dinner

The last Wednesday of every month is PDC (Pagan Dinner Club). I am game for anything that involves food, wine and conversation around a table. Plus, I have always felt a little pagan. Last November, I opened my issue of Bon Appetit and saw the sexiest piece of meat I have ever seen— Porchetta (take a look at the recipe and picture here).  For the past six months, that lovely piece of pork loin wrapped in pork belly would start calling my name but I never pulled the trigger. Until last Wednesday. It was my turn to host dinner and I knew exactly what to make, the porchetta of my dreams.  I followed the recipe to the letter except I used a full loin and pork belly and adjusted the spices and garlic accordingly. It was an extraordinary piece of meat— tender, flavorful and sexy.

What else does one serve with a massive amount of pork wrapped in luscious pork belly? Why, fingerling potatoes and sweet onions roasted in duck fat with pancetta and a Caesar salad (I forgot the anchovies) with croutons sautéed in olive oil and the drippings from the porchetta. Those croutons were a stroke of genius, one I intend to repeat over and over. I tossed the potatoes in duck fat and roasted them at 400 degrees for about 30 - 35 minutes on parchment paper. I laid pancetta on top about 10 minutes before they were done and crumbled it after I pulled them out of the oven. Duck fat is magic, the potatoes had the most delectable crust— amazing.

We drank a wine from the Piedmont, Cascina del Pozzo Lucrezia Barbera d'Alba. It was perfect with the pork— dry and elegant with subtle fruit notes. It was a little richer in body than other Barberas I have tasted and I really enjoyed it.

There are a few meals I have put together that stand out and this is definitely one of them. Not only was it a good meal, it was an even better evening filled with people I have come to adore. Jim Henson said, 'there's not a word yet, for old friends who've just met'. Ted and I are still new-comers to Bayfield, we have only been here for five years. As I looked around the table, I had a strong feeling that my fellow pagan dinner companions are indeed old friends we have just met.  I have been blessed many times over in my life with beautiful memories of children, family and friends around my table— it is no small thing to share a meal with those you love. I believe it creates a sacred space in our lives which is truly nourishing.

California Pinot Meets French Burgundy

Admittedly, I am a novice when it comes to wine knowledge. Everything I have learned has come from 'on the job' training, not that I am complaining. Drinking wine is hardly a chore. Pinot Noir is one of my favorite wines and I am always on the look out for a good bottle. The 2008 Talbott 'Sleepy Hollow' Pinot is a great bottle of wine, I mean it is a 'I am still thinking about it the next morning' bottle. Bob, my wine loving friend, was coming to dinner and I was excited to open a bottle and get his opinion. As it happened, he had a bottle of 2005 Andre Ziltener Burgundy in his hands when he walked in the kitchen. This was the perfect opportunity to taste a California Pinot against a French Burgundy.

The verdict? Talbott is a smooth, kind of flashy and relatively full-bodied Pinot— kind of like a really nice Lexus. The Andre Ziltener is a more nuanced Pinot with a depth and patina that reminded me of a classic old Mercedes in mint condition. The French have made wine for centuries and it makes sense I would taste the 'terrior' in the Ziltener wine. Maybe terrior tastes like a beautiful old Mercedes?? Regardless, I enjoyed both wines and hope to meet them again some day.